That just happened.

Wow.  The past six weeks or so have been such an incredible blur of love, camaraderie, and adventure that we haven’t really had time to reflect on the significance of things.  We’re here in Cuenca, Ecuador, settling in bit by bit, and we’ve finally stopped going long enough to take a deep breath and appreciate how extraordinarily blessed we are.  We’ve got hard drives full of pictures and videos, and as we look through them, the most common thought is, “wow, did that really happen?”

In January, we decided the wedding would be in Costa Rica.  It’ll be a nice, simple beach wedding we reasoned, and because of the cost, probably small.  At least our immediate family would show up, we hoped.  At that point we didn’t really realize how big our immediate family was.  Fast forward to a week before the ceremony, and I remember riding a beach cruiser somewhere in Playa Cocles.  I looked back and saw a line of bicycles, all politely riding single file on the side of the road, and I couldn’t see the end of it.  Were we really rolling 20 deep in a tropical gringo bike mob?

Actually, at the height of the insanity, the size of our entourage had approached 50 people, which is still a little bit unbelievable.  Many more of our loved ones wanted to come but for various reasons were unable to make it.  We missed you all dearly, but in the end it was probably for the best, as we’re not sure Puerto Viejo could have handled any more of us.

This is supposed to be the wedding blog, but in reality the wedding/reception/honeymoon started the moment we arrived in San José and came to a close (wait, it is over, right?) when we left.  It was an entire month of quality time, traveling with our closest friends and loved ones.  The guests came and went in a pattern that, on paper, would look a lot like a bell curve—a few in the beginning, then rising suddenly to many, and tapering off to a few at the end.

Shoutouts to the early arrivals—Aaron, Maria, Mike W., and Rubia.  They helped us figure out a lot of things and iron out some of the wrinkles to make things easier for everyone else (like when Rubia got gringo-taxed and had to buy a second bus ticket, or when Aaron had his wallet and iPhone stolen at Rocking J’s—oh wait, no, he just misplaced it in his freaking pocket.  What a pan.)

We left the U.S. with all these big intentions of traveling around to various places, visiting Panamá, climbing mountains in the jungle, and more.  But after the 5-hour bus ride to Puerto Viejo, we all seemed content to chill on the beach for the majority of the time, and that’s what we did.  The first week was highlighted by falling in love with casados de chuleta (basically rice and beans with porkchops), and then trying the dish in as many different sodas as we could to find the best.  The verdict: Soda Chocolate in Bribri.  The best in Puerto Viejo (and a very close second overall) was easily Café Wolaba.

Eventually, we gave in to our starving artist tendencies and figured out that we could make casados de chuleta for a lot cheaper on our own, and we didn’t do too bad of a job once we learned that rice and beans take forever to cook, and started cooking huge batches and stockpiling it, Costco style (Costco Rico style, even).  Every evening, the communal kitchen and lounge area at Hostel Pagalú was bubbling with laughter, conversation, the aromas of delicious food, and countless games of Pusoy Dos.  In the daytime, we rode bikes, relaxed on the beach, got shouted at by monkeys—it was exactly what a lazy summer should be.

The next batch to arrive included Tony, Charlie, and Leia’s parents.  Things proceeded similarly, and we started doing more adventurous things as well.  A six mile hike through Cahuita National Park let us glimpse into a treasure trove of flora and fauna.  Within the first two hours inside the park (somehow we managed to leave early morning) we had seen sloths, monkeys, several types of venomous snakes, raccoons, squirrels (including normal looking ones you might see back home, and others that looked like their evil step-cousins), birds, and more.  The raccoons, by the way, were the ballsiest little buggers we’ve ever seen.  One of them scrambled out of the trees and onto the beach where Leia’s dad was standing next to a closed, fully loaded backpack.  With no concern for the 6-foot human and his attempts to chase it away, the little raccoon grabbed the bag by its straps and started to drag it away, little by little.  It took about 10 people shouting, throwing rocks, and waving sticks to make it relent.  Raccoons is gangsta.

Jason’s family arrived one night as Mestizo Magic logged their first official gig in Central America, at Tasty Waves Cantina in Playa Cocles, and the debauchery began to increase exponentially.  Levi has an uncanny knack for turning an ok party into a rager simply by jumping up and down repeatedly.  A great gaggle of guests visited the Jaguar Rescue Center—a rehabilitation facility for wild animals that have been injured or confiscated from people who kept them as pets.  For many, this was a highlight of the trip.  In addition to seeing more than a dozen species of venomous snakes, we got to see sloths up close (they’re always smiling!), caimans, a beautiful big cat called a margay, several types of tropical birds, and a coati, led by a really knowledgeable guide who had great insights to share about each animal.  The best part, however, was when we were herded into an enclosure—about 20’ x 20’—and allowed (well, some of us forced) to play with adorable one year old howler monkeys.  They were the cutest things ever, like little kids that can climb on your head even when you’re not laying down.  You could just reach out your hand to one, and it would grab you with its hand or its tail and eventually start crawling all over you and using you as a jungle gym.

 

 

More and more people were arriving every day, until suddenly it was time for the main event.  August 27^th, 2011, the most important and incredible day of our lives began with . . . a water shortage.  To be precise, there was no running water in the entire hotel.  Either because of excessive use or because of a leak, the well had run dry overnight, and in the morning we had a predicament.  Something bad was bound to happen, and this was it.  Fortunately, they managed to get one shower switched onto a reserve tank, and the restaurant next door let us use their shower as well.  Shit sometimes happens in the jungle, and we’re proud of the fact that even our most fastidious guests managed to take it in stride and take care of business.

Everyone did their own thing in the morning, going into town for breakfast, sleeping off hangovers, etc.  Many people went to Bread & Chocolate to savor their last delicious breakfast at a restaurant that had become something of an addiction.  Some were intrepid enough to visit the Jaguar Rescue Center, go snorkeling, and ride bikes all over town before lunch time.  After noon, most people were back at the hotel slowly getting ready.  Aliyah (niece of the groom) walked around using her most intimidating faces to collect money for the charter bus back to San Jose the next day.  Leia got ready with her bridesmaids; Darlene did her hair.  Jason was at the bus station trying to arrange the next day’s transport and got back to the hotel 30 minutes before the wedding.  Ultimately, everything and everyone was prepared and looking fabulous on time.

The guests began to filter down to the beach as Jason’s dad played classical guitar.  Dozens of onlookers stopped and watched from a distance—we were assured this sort of thing was a rarity in Puerto Viejo.  In came the family of the bride, followed by the groomsmen and bridesmaids.  Aliyah threw flower petals in the path of the coming bride.  When Leia started walking down the aisle, escorted by her father, she was absolutely glowing.  It could have been from three weeks spent lying on the beach in the tropics, or it could’ve been because it was the happiest day of her life, but either way she looked radiant.  Jason looked alright.  

 

 

 

Janis (sister of the groom) officiated the ceremony, which to the certain delight of the guests, lasted only ten minutes.  The bride and groom promised their undying love and commitment to each other, it was made official, and then they made out.  After the ceremony it was time for pictures with our amazing personal photographer, Maria Villote, and random other guests who didn’t mind that everyone in their pictures would be looking slightly to the left.

 

 

 

The bride and groom were the last to return to the hotel, where the reception was held.  Their first dance as a married couple was “In Love with You” by Erykah Badu with Ziggy Marley.  (This was a much debated subject, but Ms. Badu eventually won out over Enrique Iglesias’ “Tonight I’m F***ing You”).  The bride, groom, and guests enjoyed a delicious Caribbean meal of rice and beans, patacones, salad, and pork, beef, or chicken.  

 

There was a champagne toast; the maid of honor, Annabelle Ferrer gave a heartfelt speech and went a full 30 seconds before starting to cry (making Leia cry).  Aaron Dadacay, the best man, followed with a speech that can only be described as a derailing train full of Ebola-infected clowns that somehow managed to avoid plunging over the fast-approaching cliff, and in doing so transformed itself from something tragic and disturbing into something entertaining and endearing.  The mic was then opened to all comers; only Janis, the father of the bride, and the father of the groom took the initiative.  The cake was cut, and then the cake was ate.

The father-daughter dance was followed by the garter and bouquet tosses (Aaron caught the garter; Maria boxed out all competitors, using a previously unknown athletic prowess to grab the flying bouquet from the air).  And then the party started.  The music was turned up, drinks started flowing, and people started dancing.  The rest of the night is history and will live on epically only in the memories of those who were fortunate enough to be there.  Oh wait, there’s pictures . . . hope no one’s planning on running for public office.

 

 

We want to extend our deepest appreciation and thanks to everyone who is a part of our lives and made this event possible—all the family and friends who made it down to Costa Rica and made this trip and our wedding the most incredible, unforgettable experience of our entire lives; all of our family and friends who couldn’t make it to Costa Rica, but came to wish us well at our open house in Oxnard; and all of our family and friends who wanted to but couldn’t make it to either. 

And of course, thanks for all the money!  Leia’s been a starving student for several years now, and Jason’s been volunteering with the Peace Corps, so there’s no way we would have been able to pull this off if our loved ones hadn’t opened up their hearts (and wallets) to us.  Your gifts have not only made possible the wedding celebration itself, but have given us a great building block with which to start our new life together.  Keep in mind that in many places here in South America, a hotel room costs about $12 per night, so however small or large your gift was, it’s going to go a long, long way.

We love each and every one of you with the entirety of our being, and we already miss you terribly, but we’re excited about this whole life thing, so we’re going to ride it out and see where it takes us.  We’ll see you all soon, whether it’s when we come back to the states to visit, or (even better) when you traipse across the globe to visit us.  There is always space in our hearts and on our couch for you.  Keep us in your thoughts and prayers, as we’re doing the same.  More pictures and video on the way.

With more love than we thought it possible to muster,

Jason & Leia

 

Where to stay in Puerto Viejo

What up kids? We're still here, still alive, still in paradise. Today we went out and checked a few places around the area we're staying in to see if they're up to par. The following are all places we've seen in person and they receive the Mestizo Magic seal of approval. Keep in mind, you get what you pay for, and the cheaper the accommodation, the more basic the amenities. Almost all of these places have kitchens available to use, internet, fans, and common hang-out areas. All of these are in a good part of town, close to everything, fairly safe, and near where we will be staying for most of the trip. We'll try to include the important things in the descriptions, but remember, you're not in the U.S., so don't expect to be staying at the Ritz--especially for the (relatively) cheap prices you'll be paying.

1. Pagalú - this is where we're currently staying. It's a clean, very nice hostel that also has double rooms. Dorms are $10 per person per night. Only problem is you can't reserve ahead of time. BUT, if you're interested in staying at this place, let us know and we'll see what we can do. We might be able to reserve your beds the morning of the day you arrive, assuming there are vacancies.

2. Cabinas Lika - next door to Pagalú. Basic accommodations, rooms have 1 bunk bed (top and bottom) and 1 double bed. $10 per person. Not the nicest looking, but all rooms have private bathroom.

3. Cabinas Guarana - we didn't actually get to see rooms, cuz they were all occupied, but the place looks really nice. $30-50 for a room.

4. Hotel Los Suenos - Rooms can accommodate 2 or 3 people. If it's 2 people, you pay $24 for the room. $33 for 3 people. Has mosquito nets (which you will appreciate). Not the fanciest place, but a good deal for the price. Friendly swiss owner.

5. Coco Loco Lodge - This one is a good option if you're a little pickier, willing to pay a bit more, and want more creature comforts. $50 gets you a private cabina with its own bathroom, a double bed, TV, refrigerator, safe, and some of them have kitchens. They also have a few that accommodate more people. Check out their web site for options.

6. Cashew Hill Jungle Cottages - This place is the best thing we've seen. It looks a little pricey, but if you're with a group and split the costs, it's not too bad at all. Like $15-20 per person per night. The web site lists how many people can stay in a cabina, but for almost all of their cabinas, there are already hammocks there, and the guy said it shouldn't be a problem to bring in an extra bed here or there. Downsides: it is definitely on a hill; be prepared to walk (it's a 5 minute walk up the hill, but steep) or take a taxi everytime ($2.00 and up depending where you're coming from. Also, they've been having problems receiving emails from the web site, so if you'd like to stay here, email Jason or Leia your exact dates and names of everyone in your party, and we'll talk to them in person.



At this point, we encourage people to book ahead. It's high season, and there are plenty of places to stay in Puerto Viejo, but you might not get the place you want if you don't book ahead. Booking a few days ahead is probably sufficient in most places. If you have a bigger group, at least a week. Remember NOT to book anything for Friday and Saturday the 26th and 27th. We've already taken care of guest accommodations for those days. We'll probably be checking out more places soon, so we'll keep you all posted.

If you have any questions, just let us know what you're leaning towards, and we can help guide you.

Costa Rica. Week One.

In case you were wondering, all is well here in paradise. We've been in-country for a couple days getting our bearings. There have been a few hiccups, but the universe just comes together for you when you let it, and life is pretty grand.

First off, many hostels and hotels offer shuttles, but it turns out it isn't the most convenient way to get away from the airport. You have to wait for the shuttle to be full to go; Aaron and Maria waited two hours for theirs. It's much faster, and (if you're not traveling alone)just about the same price to take a taxi. Just use one of the official airport taxis (orange).

Also, beware the gringo tax: extra costs associated with not knowing where you are and what you're doing. Here's an example. In San Jose, we boarded the bus to Puerto Viejo. Rubia inadvertently gave her ticket to a little boy selling candy on the bus. Since she didn't have her ticket, the ticket taker came back and demanded she pay for another one, even though he knew very well that she had one. So hold on to your tickets. And keep everything valuable close to you.

Puerto Viejo is amazing. We've been riding bikes around, relaxing, swimming in the warm ocean, eating, eating, more eating, and being lazy. It's a good summer. We've checked out the wedding site, and it's splendid. All is well, now we just wait for everyone to get here.

Here's a video:

Greetings guests! Less than 3 months remain until the big day; we hope you've all got your passports and tickets in order.

We've put together a little guide with some basic information intended to help you get from place to place with relative ease. Most of the information is general, of the sort that can be found in guide books like Lonely Planet, Let's Go, etc., or on online travel guides like Wikitravel. (We recommend checking those out, by the way.) It also includes more specific information about where to stay in Puerto Viejo, and other things.

Clicking on the picture below will take you to a page where you can download the guide in PDF format.If you still have any questions, feel free to ask.

All I Wanna Know Is: Who's Coming With Me???

In order to make planning and scheduling easier, we'll be posting the dates that each guest will be in Costa Rica. Again, if you don't speak Spanish or aren't comfortable traveling on your own, you might want to arrive and leave when others do. The chart below highlights the dates that each guest will be in-country (so the first group, for example, arrives on the 10th and leaves on the 31st). Click it to make it bigger.


We will update this chart as we receive more information, so please, don't forget to R.S.V.P. as soon as you purchase plane tickets by sending an email to leiamuzette@gmail.com. Remember to include the names of everyone in your group, as well as dates and times of arrival to and departure from San Jose. Or, you can just forward your itinerary.

Right now, round-trip tickets from LAX are in the $450-$550 range. Tickets from the East Coast should be cheaper. Prices could drop between now and August, or they could go up, especially if the price of oil continues rising.

If you're looking at cheap tickets on Spirit Airlines, factor in a charge of about $30 per bag. That's even for carry-on bags if they don't fit under the seat. Many airlines now charge for checked baggage, but as far as I know, most others don't charge for carry-ons.

Tickets Purchased, Ball Rolling

It’s official. Our tickets have been purchased. We’ll be in Costa Rica on the 10^th of August. Here are the details:

Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Leave LAX 7:20a; Arrive DEN 10:45a
Leave DEN 12:35p; Arrive IAH 3:53p
Leave IAH 6:00p; Arrive SJO 8:40p

So we’re going L.A. to Denver to Houston to San Jose. We’re flying on Continental and United, so if you’re trying to fly with us, make sure the times match up, or email one of us for flight numbers. Why one-way? Because after this incredible tropical fiesta, we’re headed south to Buenos Aires to see what trouble we can stir up in Argentina. Our departure date is tentatively set for August 30^th, a few days after the wedding.

What does this mean for you?
For those of our guests who a) have never traveled outside the country, b) don’t speak a word of Spanish, or c) just want to spend as much time with us as possible, we’ll be in San Jose at certain times to meet people as they arrive, help them get their bearings, and shepherd them around as need be. The first of those times will be when we arrive on Wednesday the 10^th and for a day or two after. The second will be on or around Tuesday, August 23^rd, since we’ve gotten word from a number of people who expect to arrive on that day. Thus, if you fit into one or more of the above categories, try to arrive in one of those windows. It looks like many people will be leaving Costa Rica on the 30^th. Some of those with less flexible work schedules will leave the 28^th.

So, to recap, here are some suggested trip dates:

3 Weeks
Arrive: Thursday, 10 Aug; Depart: Wednesday, 31 Aug
1 Week
Arrive: Tuesday, 23 Aug; Depart: Wednesday, 31 Aug
Weekend
Arrive : Thursday, 25 Aug; Depart: Sunday, 28 Aug

Of course, if you’re comfortable getting around on your own, you can come and go when you please.

Accomodations
We’ve had a lot of people ask about lodgings, so we’ll address those concerns briefly here. First of all, please RELAX. As I write this, the wedding is still several months away. Costa Rica is a backpacker mecca, meaning it is overflowing with cheap, quality accommodations. Also, August is in the low season, meaning it’s not necessary to book ahead. In fact, we probably won't know where we're staying until the minute we arrive in Puerto Viejo. For the most part, we expect people to take care of their own accommodations. It is 100% OK for you just to show up in Costa Rica and figure out where to stay from there. It’s easy, we promise. We may suggest that people stay in certain hostels/hotels/cottages so that most of the group is together, as that would make for a nice festive atmosphere, and would make logistics much easier. Just to wet your whistles, here are couple of places we’ve been looking at (many of these are ideal for small groups of 3-6 people looking to split lodging):

Cashew Hill Jungle Cottages

Pagalú

Hotel Puerto Viejo (Cheap and good—we’ve stayed there)

Bungalows Calalu

Monte Sol

Check out other options on Wikitravel, or look at a current Lonely Planet guidebook at Borders or Barnes & Noble. Let us know what looks good to you.

But again, there is plenty of time for all of this, so don’t freak out just yet.

R.S.V.P.
Please let us know as soon as you purchase your plane tickets by sending an email to leiamuzette@gmail.com with COSTA RICA WEDDING – YOUR NAME as the subject line. In this email, please include the dates you are arriving and leaving Costa Rica and the number of people coming with you.

Update: Open House to be held in Oxnard, CA

For those of you who can't make it to Costa Rica (as well as those who can), we'll be having an open house in California. Here are the specs:

Saturday, July 30th
4:00-9:oop
Suvarnaphumi Thai Cuisine Restaurant
2148 Saviers Road
Oxnard, CA 93033

Again, please DO NOT BRING GIFTS. We’re always traveling, so material goods, nice as they may be, become quite a burden. We really just want our friends and family to come together and share this extra special occasion with us. If you insist on a gift, there’s always room in our luggage for cash and checks.

Please R.S.V.P. by July 20th by sending an email to leiamuzette@gmail.com